A Simple, Joyful Birthday in Chilika Lagoon

By Greeshma Prakash Sherly MES SUSM Candidate, SEED. It was my third day in Chilika, I woke to the delicate clinging of bangles filling the morning air. It is their part of tradition and culture for married women to wear those bangles. As the clinging echoed around me, I slightly opened my eyes and glanced at my phone for time, it was 7:00 am already and I also realised it was my 25^th birthday. Birthdays have always been a mundane day for me but taking a twist this year. Stepping into the world of Chilika Fishing community as a novice social science researcher was a journey I have never experienced. I realised myself being indulged in how to blend into their culture, tradition and slowly build up a relationship with mutual respect and trust.  

I slowly got up from the bed and looked outside to see a cute little smile that stole my heart. It was “Satya,” a small cute little fellow with a round kajal mark on his forehead and cheek (this is a traditional practice to wade off evil eyes). The moment he saw me, he asked me’ “Gichma di, muttayi diyo?” (Gichma- his cute way of calling out my name, di – sister, can you give me some sweets?) It melted my heart, and I lifted him up, before running towards his mother, shyly. 

Women cooking in the earthy scented muddy kitchen has become my usual morning sight now, with their giggles and clinging bangles echoing all over. It is all about aloo (Potatoes), I do not remember any meal where potatoes were missing. I love eating aloo too, so I got excited and asked, “Aloo for me??” (with gestures). One of them said, “Tume paain khaana nahi” (Sorry, no food for you) and chuckled softly. We laughed together and I watched them for a while. Most of our discussions were about food, sometimes they ask me about food in my hometown Kerala and we spend time talking about it. I mostly communicated with gestures and my broken Hindi skills. At some point I saw myself inventing a new dialect that was a mix of Odiya words I tried to pick up from them and hind, a coping mechanism to blend in it seems, I sometimes end up laughing at myself! 

                Earthen traditional kitchen where they prepared food with love and care. 

Soon after, I hurriedly got ready and headed to catch a boat to reach my translator’s village -Berhampur after having some crispy samosa and gulugula (my favourite snack) as breakfast from Pitambar’s shop (my host villager). Spending time with Pitambar in the shop has become my favourite time pass later on, helping him to prepare samosa, and pakoda (mixed veggies snack) and just being the part of the hustle.  

Boat almost reached near the jetty, I saw a man waving his hand from the far, my translator “Tapan Kumar Behera”. Little did I knew then that what started as a translator -researcher relationship would blossom into a true friendship and a warm place in his family’s world. We got off at Mahinsha, adjacent village to Berhampur. We walked all the way from there to his house, on our way I met few friends of Tapan, all excited to meet me. His family gave me a warm welcome, not only his family the whole village 😊. I roamed around the whole village with him and his son, he showed me Casuarina Forest camp, we spotted some dolphins and came back in few hours at his place for lunch.  

                        Beautiful Moments with Tapan, his family and friends! 

On our return, I was asked to his relative house, adjacent to his house, and to my surprise I saw a small crowd waiting for me with a cute little cake for my birthday. I did not know how to react, my heart was filled with joy and feeling moved by the kindness and love they showered at me. A cute little cake made by them and their excitement to wish me made my day, I would say I am privileged to have been able to celebrate my birthday with them. I was so speechless, I was never expecting such a cute birthday, making my first day as a 25^th year old women memorable and emotional.  

                          Celebrating my birthday with a cute cake from them! 

Later, we sat down and devoured the delicious Chilika fish fry and rice, sharing laughter and stories. To my surprise, seeing their hospitality and love, I realised that I have woven into their lives in a way that I felt like home. On my return, enjoying the boat ride, I sat back and admired the beauty of Chilika Lake, with birds flying overhead, and I thought this journey would not be just about my  research, but would be more about the connection I make and bonds I build with each villagers which would in turn shape me into a good listener and better human being with kindness, and love.